Snowblower Won’t Start? 7 Quick Things to Check Before a Service Call

The snow is falling. Okay, it’s still falling. It was already snowing pretty hard before you went to sleep last night and there’s no sign of it letting up. It’s a good thing you got up early this morning. You have a lot of snow to clear before you’re going anywhere.

After a quick cup of coffee you head out to the garage and thank your lucky stars for your snowblower. Gone are the days of punishing your back by moving snow with a shovel. 

You make sure everything is in order, give the priming pump a few pushes, key on, choke on … you give the pull cord a good heave and …nothing. Normally, she at least sputters on the first pull. You pull the cord again, and then again quickly after that. Nothing and nothing.

Now the panic starts to set in, you’ve got to get the kids to school and then get to work. That extra time you thought you had by getting up early just melted away, but the snow remains. What started out as a beautiful white landscape this morning is beginning to look like a total s***show.

Before you let this up-end your day (or days to come), why not do a couple quick checks to see if you can get things back on track. At DC Sales & Service, we’ve seen everything from routine maintenance problems that can be a quick do-it-yourself fix to more involved engine issues. 

Some things are worth bringing your snowblower to the shop for repair, but other things you can take care of yourself and get your equipment back up and running in no time. Maybe you’ll even be able to have another cup of coffee this morning!

If you have a mid-sized to larger property, you’re probably running a  2-stage (auger to blower) snowblower. And if you lean toward do-it-yourself when it comes to basic checks and maintenance, here are some of the most common, but easily fixable, no-start issues.

Step-by-Step Guide

Check 1: Old or Bad Fuel

  • Fuel older than ~30 days starts to break down and loses volatility. Stale fuel doesn’t vaporize enough, making  it tough to get the fuel burning and your engine running from a cold start.
  • Ethanol issues are now more common since gas from the pump contains ethanol by default, unless you choose the higher grade ethanol-free gas for your equipment. 

Ethanol pulls moisture from the air and leads to water in the fuel, those layers (gas and water) separate and blocks combustion. This is very common after a snowblower has been sitting since last season.

How to fix it:

  • Drain at least some of the old fuel
  • Add fresh fuel 
  • Add fuel stabilizer

Check 2: Fuel Shutoff / Key / Choke Position / Priming / Throttle

First day, new snowblower? Or just first day this season? Or maybe you woke up asking, how did the grass turn white and what planet am I even on? We’ve all had days like that and we're not born with snowblower instinct.Sometimes we just forget if it’s been a while. 

Steps for beginners (or reminders):

  • Check to make sure your fuel shutoff switch is set to the ON position.
  • Is the key in and turned ON?
  • Did you push the primer bulb 2-4 times to get fuel into the combustion chamber? Don’t overdo it, though, or you’ll end up flooding the engine (see below).
  • Is the throttle set to FAST (the RABBIT on the turtle/rabbit slider switch)?
  • Check to make sure your choke is ON. The choke restricts air intake and leaves you with richer fuel mix in the carburetor so it’s more likely to ignite. Once it’s running well and sounds stable, be sure to turn the choke off or reduce the choke gradually as the engine warms up.

Check 3: Flooded Engine

Maybe, in your excitement to move all that snow, you were a little overzealous and you pushed the primer bulb a few too many times. Flooding is too much fuel and not enough air in the combustion chamber. 

Besides too much priming, flooding can be caused by too many start attempts with choke fully on, starting with throttle too low, and many start attempts in succession where every recoil pull sends in more fuel.

Signs of flooding are fuel smell, wet spark plug (if you pull it out and it is shiny, soaked, or has visible fuel drips or mist), engine cough but no start, and harder recoil pulls that cause no change in sound.

To clear flooding:

  • Turn off choke (increases airflow to evaporate fuel)
  • Hold throttle wide open (more airflow)
  • Wait 5-10 min. for fuel to evaporate and spark plug to dry
  • Pull starter recoil several times with NO choke (lets in air to clear the cylinder)
  • Check spark plug, wipe it dry or replace it

Check 4: Spark Plug Condition

You can’t start a fire without a spark, right? So it’s worth checking to make sure your spark plugs are able to do the job.

Plugs can get “fouled,” which means they are coated with black soot from burning rich fuel (choke on too long or repeated cold-start attempts) or they are covered with wet gas after flooding. This results in weak or no spark and the engine may cough but won’t start.

Plugs can wear out too. Check your spark plug for a rounded or eroded center electrode, wide gap, or light grey or white deposits. Those issues can cause intermittent spark, make cold starts even harder, and poor running with heavy use.

To check your spark plug: 

  • Twist the plug wire gently to loosen and pull it straight off
  • Use a socket wrench of the correct size to remove the plug
  • Check the gap: wide gap means spark will be weak; rounded electrodes indicate worn plug
  • Check plug tip to see if it’s wet, fouled, white and crusty, or normal (light tan or gray)

Replace the spark plug when:

  • Plug is fouled and wiping it clean doesn’t help
  • Plug is visibly worn (rounded electrodes, widened gap)
  • Plug is cracked
  • Engine hasn’t had a new plug in more than 1–2 seasons
  • You’ve already addressed fuel/choke issues but still get no-start

Check 5: Air Filter Issues

Your snowblower needs fuel, air, and a spark, all in the right balance. If the air filter is blocked, the engine won’t get enough air, especially when the engine is cold.

Signs of a blocked or wet air filter:

  • Engine coughs but won’t start
  • Engine starts but quickly dies out 
  • Strong fuel smell (running too rich)
  • Black smoke pours out if it does start

Snow and moisture problems

Snowblowers are designed to work in wet conditions, but snow and meltwater can sometimes get in the wrong places and soak or freeze the air filter. A wet filter restricts airflow just like a dirty one, making cold starts much harder.

What to check:

  • Find the air filter housing (usually behind a plastic cover near the carburetor)
  • Remove the cover and inspect the filter

Clean or replace the filter

  • Foam filter:
    • If it’s dirty: wash the filter with warm soapy water, rinse, and let it dry completely
    • Apply a light coating of oil if to the filter if that is recommended by the manufacturer (standard small-engine air filter oil or clean SAE 30 in a pinch; coat evenly and remove excess by squeezing gently in a clean rag)
  • Paper filter:
    • If it’s dirty or wet: replace it
    • Do not wash or blow out a paper filters, that will just cause even more damage

If the filter is frozen, soaked, torn, or heavily soiled, it’s time to replace it.

Check 6: Safety Switches & Cables

Snowblowers have several safety systems to shut off the engine if controls aren’t engaged properly. If one of these isn’t working, the machine may never start at all.

Common safety-related causes:

  • Operator presence lever not fully engaged
  • Ice buildup preventing levers from moving freely
  • Corroded or stretched control cables
  • Damaged or disconnected kill switch wiring

What you can safely check:

  • Make sure all levers move smoothly and return fully
  • Look for ice, packed snow, or debris around controls
  • Visually inspect cables for fraying, rust, or obvious damage
  • Confirm nothing is stuck or jammed near control linkages

What not to do (it’s not worth getting hurt):

  • Don’t bypass safety switches
  • Don’t force adjustments you’re unsure about

If a safety system isn’t engaging correctly, the engine will continue to shut itself down—even if everything else is in perfect condition.

Check 7: Carburetor Gunk 

This is one of the most common reasons snowblowers won’t start after sitting.

The fuel we use—especially ethanol-blended gas—can leave sticky residue behind as it evaporates. When a snowblower is stored over the summer and fall, that residue hardens inside the carburetor’s tiny spaces and jets, blocking fuel flow the next time you try to start it.

Signs of carburetor issues:

  • Engine won’t start despite fresh fuel and good spark
  • Engine only runs with choke fully on
  • Starts briefly, then stalls
  • Primer bulb seems ineffective, no firmness as usually happens as the fuel is pulled through

When carb cleaner might work:

  • The machine ran recently
  • The issue is mild hesitation or rough idle
  • Fuel sat for a short time (weeks, not months)
  • In these cases, spray carb cleaner (used correctly, according to instructions) may help dissolve light deposits.

When carb cleaner won’t work:

  • Fuel sat in the machine all last season
  • Engine won’t fire at all
  • Multiple no-start attempts with good spark and compression
  • Primer does nothing

At this point, spaces inside the carburetor are likely blocked, and spray cleaner won’t reach the places where it’s needed.

Time for a Decision

This is where many do-it-yourself fixes stop being worth the time.

A proper carburetor cleaning or rebuild requires:

  • Full carb removal
  • Disassembly
  • Soaking or ultrasonic cleaning
  • Correct reassembly and adjustment

That’s typically shop service, which can save you a lot of frustration.

Snowblower Maintenance Parts & Products

Some snowblower starting problems come down parts that wear out or, like gas, degrade over time. These are the most common maintenance parts mentioned above and worth checking—or replacing—before winter hits you at full blast.

Common replacement parts and maintenance products

Spark plugs

A fresh plug is inexpensive and often solves hard-starting or no-start issues, especially after flooding or repeated cold starts. It’s good to have a couple on hand in case a quick replacement can get you back up and running.

Fuel line

Cracked, brittle, or leaking fuel lines can restrict fuel flow or create air leaks that prevent starting.

Air filters

Dirty, wet, or deteriorated filters restrict airflow and make cold starts much harder.

Fuel stabilizer

Adding stabilizer helps prevent ethanol-related fuel breakdown during storage and reduces carburetor issues next season.

FAQ

Why did my snowblower work last year but not this year?

Most often, it’s a fuel-related issue. Gas breaks down over time, especially with ethanol blends, leading to clogged carburetors, moisture contamination, or hard starts after storage.

Can bad gas really stop a snowblower from starting?

Yes. Stale or ethanol-affected fuel can prevent proper combustion entirely, even if everything else is in good condition.

Is it worth fixing an older snowblower?

In many cases, yes. Simple repairs like carb cleaning, fuel system service, or ignition parts are often far less expensive than replacement—especially if the machine is otherwise solid.

Need parts?

Check out our online store, give us a call , or stop in at 4833 State Route 46, Rome NY (former site of George Kahler Sales).

Back to blog